Rather than embody the rank pungency of both raw durian and
fermentation microbes, fermented durian diverges from the sum of its
parts. Locals in Malaysia and parts of Indonesia cook with this
yellowish paste, known as tempoyak, to preserve and make use of
non-optimal durians after the end of picking season. Preparation is
simple: Cooks mix about one cup of fruit with one tablespoon of salt to
product a creamy, sour paste that lacks much of durian’s infamous aroma.Tasters liken the finished product to tangy mayonnaise with a
distinctly acidic profile. It’s not eaten alone, but enhances a breadth
of traditional fare. In Sarawak, chefs ferment durian to pair with meat,
fish, or local petai beans. The lattermost, also called “stink beans”
(due to their aroma and biological effects when consumed) up the ante
when served with a topping of tempoyak and chili-fried anchovies. In
case processing renders the condiment too accessible, this spicy, fishy,
pungent pairing brings a sense of adventure back to eating durian.